While their slogan is the “New Spirit of Africa,” for 80 years Ethiopian Airlines has served as a longtime, loyal lifeline for people to travel to and from Addis Ababa and across the world.
Since 1946, the airline — founded by then Emperor Haile Selassie and still owned by the Ethiopian government — has offered flights that, even in coach, feature hearty meals, care packages with eye masks and toothbrushes, and pillows and blankets. Plus, now there are modern amenities such as seats with televisions and chargers, as well as Internet for purchase or that comes free with a business class ticket.
Even now with such comforts, for people like Thomas Woldemariam and many other travelers, the airline’s value goes beyond its cozy perks. It creates opportunities to connect, convene and celebrate.
“I have never used another airline to travel to Ethiopia, but Ethiopian Airlines,” said Woldemariam, a local business owner who was born in Ethiopia and moved to the Washington region in 2004. “I travel three or four times a year. I only use Ethiopian Airlines and I’ve been traveling frequently to Ethiopia for many years. And so it would be very inconvenient for me to use another airline, especially traveling from Washington to Ethiopia. I don’t know that many direct flights.”
The entrepreneur who now lives in Woodbridge, Virginia, took a trip to Addis Ababa in late September, a festive time for Ethiopia’s capital. Although the main reason for the trip was a family wedding in Addis Ababa, he was also excited to be there right after the Ethiopian New Year, which is celebrated on Sept. 11, and for Meskel, a religious holiday on Sept. 27.
“[The wedding] landed on the week of the holiday, which I usually travel every other year for… So it worked out,” Woldemariam told The Informer. “I think that holiday season makes it special to travel and to see your family at that time.”
However, even for travelers without familial connections to the East African country, visiting Ethiopia, particularly in September, can be special.
“Ethiopia was nothing short of magical,” said Charlotte Thompson, who went to Addis Ababa as part of an Ethiopian Airlines and Ethiopian Holidays sponsored FAM trip Sept. 24-27.
With the seasonal, yellow adey abeba flower decorating the city for new year festivities and observances, visiting Ethiopia in the fall allows all people to learn history, witness important commemorations and dive into the country’s culture.
“I think it’s exciting for the city and the country,” Woldemariam said, “and gives it a colorful vibe to the whole country.”
The History of Addis Ababa: Born From a ‘New Flower’
Ethiopia recently celebrated 2019, as the country follows a 13-month calendar that falls about seven years behind the standard Gregorian calendar.
“In Ethiopia, we have four different calendars, depending on the tribes… and so there are indigenous calendars, as well,” said Firew Fisaha during a tour given to FAM trip participants on Sept. 25. “And then instead of changing the calendar at midnight, we change the calendar at 6 a.m., because that’s when the sun rises. So that’s the beginning of the new day.”
While the new year celebration is an exciting time, it also perfectly aligns with a great opportunity to learn about Addis Ababa, including the city’s name.
The name itself relates to adey abeba, a yellow flower that blooms and flourishes in September and October and can be spotted on a variety of things during that time of year: from a pin on a person’s lapel, to a table setting, a massive design on a building, and even on the printed tickets for Ethiopian Airlines.
While the flower is pretty, it’s famous beyond its beauty. For many, the story starts with Empress Taytu Betel, the wife of celebrated Ethiopian Emperor Menelik II — who ruled from 1889–1913 and famously led military forces to defeat Italian colonizers at the Battle of Adwa in 1896.
“She saw this unique flower,” Fisaha told the group of tourists, who visited Addis Ababa on direct flights from Washington Dulles International Airport, as well as from New York, Newark, Atlanta and Chicago. “Since she came from a higher altitude, she never witnessed, in her lifetime, this kind of flower. And then she asked for the name of the flower, and at the time, the slaves didn’t recognize the name of the flower, and they could not say, ‘I don’t know,’ to the queen. So they decide to say, ‘This is just a new flower.”
Their quick thinking went a long way. Interested in more than just the flower, the empress often sought to visit the area where it grows to this day for its natural resources.
“Whenever she wanted to come to this hot spring, she used to say, ‘Let’s go to the new flower,’ which remained the common name, and resulted in the name of the city,” Fisaha added. “So Addis Ababa means ‘new flower.’”
Since its official founding in 1886, Ethiopia’s capital city has been a meeting place for the country’s government as well as cultural gatherings, such as the Ethiopian Christian Orthodox holiday Meskel.
“Addis Ababa was basically founded for the sake of looking for a central place for the sake of the taxation system back in that time. Before 1881, the king used to travel to different local regions of Ethiopia. Back in that time, we used to be 96 tribes, but we are now currently 89, after we lost Eritrea,” Fisaha explained. “Sometimes they ended up having a conflict with the local kings, because they always fought for the position of king of kings.”
Menelik II, then king of Shewa, a northern part of Addis Ababa, was one of the local leaders to show his ultimate power.
“He became the king of kings,” the tour guide continued. ”But instead of going to different regions, to collect tax, he decided to build the grand palace, at this high point of Ethiopia, and then force the locals to come and pay him in taxes. So the plan goes well, and then he situated his grand palace at the top of the peak mountain in the city, called Mount Entoto.”
To this day, Menelik II’s palace remains a historic site for tourists and Ethiopian natives alike to visit at Unity Park. There, people can also learn the history of the country and region and see animals such as lions, cheetahs, primates, various birds and friendly giraffes at the zoo.
Further, guests can tour Emperor Selassie’s Jubilee Palace, which he built in honor of his 25th anniversary as king in 1955 (before being imprisoned in the basement of the building in 1974 and allegedly murdered there the following year). Still adorned with Lion of Judah statues and door handles, the palace features a wax figure of the historic emperor— who ruled from 1930-1974— sitting on his throne, and an exhibit called: “Ethiopia: Faith, Legend and Governments.”
“Unity Park was fascinating to me watching the history unfold of all the former leaders. Yes, it is a beautiful park and I especially loved seeing many of the 519 species of birds native to Ethiopia, but I also really enjoyed learning about the history of the leaders that is told throughout the park,” Thompson, a D.C.-based content creator with a focus on traveling, told The Informer. “In the old palace building they had a display of all the different religions that are represented across Ethiopia and an exhibit explaining the Queen of Sheba and her significance across different faith backgrounds.”
Celebrating Meskel: Experiencing ‘The Power of Faith’
Beyond getting to witness the seasonal adey abeba in the fall, visiting Ethiopia during Meskel allows for a unique experience in itself. A holiday celebrated by the Ethiopian Orthodox Tewahedo Church (EOTC), witnessing Meskel in person offers a transformative experience, even for those who do not come from the ancient faith tradition.
“As a non-denominational American Christian,” Thompson said, “it was fascinating for me to learn about Meskel and the Ethiopian Christian Orthodox Church as a whole.”
Hundreds of thousands gather in Meskel Square in Addis Ababa, and even more people across the world, wear primarily white traditional Ethiopian clothes with bright adornments to celebrate the holiday recognizing the discovery of the cross used for the crucifixion of Jesus in 326 AD. For many it’s a moment for faith leaders, congregations, family, friends and more to celebrate the sacrifice of Christ’s crucifixion, the miracle of the resurrection, and to encourage a life led by God.
“We being Orthodox Christians, that’s one of the big holidays we celebrate,” said Woldemariam.
On the eve of the holiday In Meskel Square thousands of faith leaders process, sing and pray as onlookers watch the ceremony, conducted in Amharic. As prayers and acknowledgements begin to conclude, people pass around a rope of sugar cane that serves as a torch to light the night sky during the ceremonial burning of the tree.
“Growing up, I’d always go to Meskel Square… and it’s always a large crowd gathered to praise the Lord,” Woldemariam told The Informer, before explaining why witnessing the tree burn and fall is so incredibly important for so many people in the EOTC. “I believe, depending on which side it l falls, predicts what’s going to be [in the future]… so people have that, that belief too.”
While Meskel Square is a central spot for gathering, Woldemariam’s family and a lot of others choose to go to the countryside to gather with loved ones for the day recognizing the religious holiday.
“A lot of excitement is building up the whole year — it’s like a family reunion,” said Woldemariam, who now regularly goes to the Gurage region to gather with his paternal side for Meskel celebrations. “So, that’s why it’s special for me.”
As a devout Christian, who even attended a church service while in Ethiopia, getting to participate in Meskel festivities was the highlight of an already exciting trip for Thompson.
“I may not have been able to understand the singing and prayers, but I could feel the connection,” she continued. “That’s the power of faith– being able to connect and feel the spirit moving even among different tribes and tongues.”
Digging Deeper Into Human Roots, Connecting Across Cultures
One of the most remarkable pieces about visiting Ethiopia for many tourists is the depth of history rooted in the soil across the East African country.
In many ways and for all people, Ethiopia truly is the motherland: from learning about early human ancestry to migration patterns and how coffee became so beloved across the world.
“I hope you’ve been observing that some of us look Indian, and some of us look deep African, some of us look European. We have a variety of faces. But it doesn’t mean we are descendants of Europeans. The origin was here. That’s why we have a variety of faces,” Fisaha said, before explaining migration patterns from Ethiopia to Northern India 75,000 years ago, all the way to today.
While in Addis Ababa, people can visit the National Museum of Ethiopia, which features Lucy (also known by her Ethiopian name Dinknesh), whose skeletal remains go back 3. 2 million years. Through discovering Lucy in 1974, researchers learned early hominids walked upright on two feet even before brain size and cognition increased.
Fisaha also explained the coffee arabica plant originated in the highlands of Ethiopian, leading to the caffeinated drink being a key part of Ethiopian culture that is traditionally served with popcorn and now a major tourist attraction for the country.
Still, even beyond the coffee plant and the beginning of human history, the people of Ethiopia work to make all people feel at home— whether native to the land like Woldemariam or visiting for the first time like Thompson.
“This was my first time truly experiencing African hospitality at its core. Ethiopians were so hospitable and welcoming. Quick to share food, coffee, and quality time,” said the travelista, who marked visiting 60 countries with her September trip to Ethiopia. “I was told before the trip to be on the lookout for how Ethiopia is a people first kind of culture, it’s all about relationships. Coffee was discovered in Ethiopia so it’s no surprise that coffee culture of sitting around and sharing good conversation over a good cup of coffee is a core piece of daily life there.”
For both Thompson and Woldemariam, traveling to Addis Ababa through Ethiopian Airlines highlights the welcoming nature of the East African country and its customs.
“It’s very pleasant to travel in Ethiopian Airlines, it’s becoming a bigger part of the culture now— something also we take pride in,” said Woldemariam, who speaks English and Amharic. “We also take pride in communicating in your own language, with people that have the same culture, and that flight makes it very convenient. So I wouldn’t see any other reason why other people would use another airline traveling from Washington to Addis.”
While she might not have had deep connections to Ethiopia like Woldemariam, Thompson appreciated everything she gained through taking the FAM trip sponsored by Ethiopian Airlines.
“Every Ethiopian I met this trip was overjoyed to share and educate me on their culture,” she continued. “They welcomed questions and curiosity and even when there was the occasional language barrier, we were always met with a bountiful amount of smiles.”
The Ethiopian Airlines and Ethiopian Holidays teams were very intentional about ensuring the FAM trip participants were not only taught Ethiopian history, but that they experienced the rich culture.
“Having the opportunity to learn transitional Ethiopian dance was my favorite. Dancing and singing is the common denominator that transcends all language barriers and cultural differences. You try to be unhappy while dancing and listening to Ethiopian music. It’s nearly impossible,” Thompson told The Informer. “This was my first trip to the land of origin and absolutely not my last.”
Washington Informer Managing Editor Micha Green was a participant on the FAM trip, sponsored by Ethiopian Airlines and Ethiopian Holidays.
